Get a
close-up look at vintage oddities like chatelaines, tussie-mussies, hat
pins, jewelry made from human hair, fans, and other whimsical
accessories of the Victorian era. Learn the language of the fan and the
hidden meaning of flowers. In this fascinating program, costumed
fashion historian Bonnie Hansen will share with you some of the
treasures from her collection of period accessories.
(CLICK on pictures for enlargements) |
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Victorian ladies wearing
chatelaine style purses |
Victorian era nurse wearing a utilitarian chatelaine |
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What is a chatelaine?
Chatelaines date back to the Middle Ages. The name comes
from a French term for the “mistress of the castle, chateau or
large establishment.” A chatelaine is an ornamental clasp
or hook from which chains are hung that hold a watch, purse,
keys, perfume bottle, thimble case, or other utilitarian items.
The chatelaine was the forerunner of the modern day purse, but
lost favor when the lives of women grew more complex. |
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In the 19th century plants and flowers were given
meaning and were codified and published in popular
books that enabled the giver of a bouquet to express
himself in the Language of Flowers. Since each
flower had a meaning, assembled together, they
spelled out a complex thought. In prim Victorian
society, the tussie-mussie was a discreet messenger
for the proper suitor. The Language of
Flowers, with its often ingenious grammar, was a
source of much anxious interest and excitement to
the lovers who communicated with it. Indeed, it has
been called the language of the love affair because
most of the meanings ascribed to particular flowers
represent the waxing and waning emotions of romantic
love. |
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Right: Queen Victoria at the Opera in 1837
carrying a tussie-mussie |
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When young
Victoria ascended the throne in 1837, tussie-mussies were
established as the key accessory and continued in popularity
until the close of the century. These neat little nosegays
were worn at the breast with stems thrust into a water-filled
bosom bottle or carried in a posy holder. The popular rose,
beloved symbol of Love, Youth and Congratulations, emblem of
England, was the favorite flower used to anchor the center of
the tussie-mussie. The large, velvety petals were the perfect
foil for smaller frilly herbs and flowers placed around this all
important flower. |
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Tussie-mussies |
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What is a tussie mussie?
A tussie mussie is a cone shaped
receptacle in which Victorian ladies placed moss (the “mussie”
part) and a little bouquet of flowers. This little nosegay
served the purpose of an ornament, an air freshener and helped
communicate the hidden language of flowers. |
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